A Birthday Abroad

This weekend I turned 23, abroad in Thailand, in a community of people I have only known for about two and a half weeks. Now there are lot's of feelings that one can experience when abroad and people back home are going to see stunning community musical productions, having surgery, celebrating holidays, having birthdays...but this weekend I wasn't feeling any of them. This weekend I was just hoping for a slice of cake somewhere between the numerous community activities going on.

I embraced the Thai spirit of "Jai yen yen" and cooled my heart, not allowing any stress in. I decided to say "yes" to the experiences that presented themselves to me, and not try to control anything. I had a few slip-ups where I was stressed about how I was perceived by those around me, but for the most of the weekend, when I allowed my heart to be cool, I found the most incredible sense of joy and peace.

Some students volunteering their time for Jit Assad

Saturday Jit Assad

Saturday morning, the morning of my birthday, opened with Jit Assad, a volunteer day for students in my community. It is currently the summer term, so this was the first time I got to spend time with the students I am here to work with. It was pretty awkward. I'm usually awkward the first time I meet new people. It was extra awkward because I still have a lot of Thai language learning to do. I can ask about names, and ages, and favorite foods and sports, but after I learned that these students love playing volleyball, I don't yet have the fluency to have a discussion about volleyball. So the conversation comes to an end until I can think of other things I have the vocabulary to talk about.

Before Jit Assad

Luckily we had work to do. And when there's work to focus on, I tend to do a little bit better. Our task today, was to paint the grey concrete fence surrounding one of the schools, a nice bright red and white. We were told to pair up and share a bucket of paint. I found my purpose this day when a student, who seemed to attend the event without a friend, asked me to be her partner. We didn't talk much, but as my mother taught me, sometimes the best form of support is just being present. Side-by-side we worked, sharing smiles and grumbles about the heat.

During Jit Assad

After Jit Assad

The Sub-district Administration Organization (SAO, government agency I work with), put together a video of the event:

After taking a group photo and waiting paint to be distributed, I was surprised when heard someone speaking English. I turned around to realize everyone was speaking English, singing English actually, "Happy Birthday to you..." I was presented with two candles on an inch of frosting topping vanilla goodness. Still morning on my birthday and, my expectations were already met.

Phraya Phichai Festival

My birthday fell on the weekend of the district festival celebrating Phraya Phichai, the hero of Phichai. I'm still looking for more information on him in English, but from what I could gather, the Phraya Phichai was a skilled Muay Thai fighter who fought with two swords. He lived nearly 300 years ago when the Thai capital of the time, Ayutthaya, was under control of the Burmese. The Phraya Phichai fought many battles on the Thai frontier, working to regain independence. In battle, one of his swords famously snapped in half. He continued fighting and won the battle. Each year the town of his birthplace celebrates his noble efforts that eventually led to Thai independence. This year, it included a fair with lights, movies, rides, music, shows, and a bike race. 

Saturday Preparation for the Festival

The first night of the festival, everyone would be wearing traditional Thai clothing, which meant that I would get to wear it too! My co-workers at the SAO lent me pieces from their closet and helped me purchase pieces from the market. After my morning of sweating and getting covered in paint, I rinsed off and was in the middle of putting on my makeup when I heard my young friends Song and Pizza calling. They saw my head pop out of bedroom door and came running into the house with boxes in tow.

They came to bring me some birthday presents. Plain paper hand-decorated with beautiful drawings, glitter, and stickers wrapped my new treasures.

Song, Nadia, and Pizza presenting my new presents.

Inside were stuffed animals they had purchased with their own money and hand drawn birthday cards I hope to frame. These sweet girls continue to welcome me into their life as we play badminton, go swimming, practice English together, and now celebrate my birthday. They accompanied me on my walk to the salon to have my hair done and outfit pinned.

Once there they insisted that my hair be styled like the lead character in the hit Thai TV Series "Love Destiny," which takes place in Thailand around 300 years ago.

Lead characters for Love Destiny

I am definitely not in love with this hairstyle, but half of the women at the festival wore the hairstyle as well so at least I fit in. Kind of. I still stuck out like a sore thumb. A very white, very blonde, very not Thai thumb. What do you think of my look?

Images from the Festival

My outfit for the festival

Me and one of my counterparts, Pii Thim

I spent a very awkward 30 minutes being stared at and drawn by four male art students. At their booth normally a person would pay to be drawn, but I think they wanted to practice drawing western features so all of them drew me for free.

We then sat down to watch the reenactment "Lacorn" of Phraya Phichai 

It was long, and it was all in Thai, but the costumes, lighting, and special effects were incredible. It was also performed by locals, many of which I work with every day. Here is a link to watch the show. I recommend scrolling thru and watching the parts you find interesting.

Otherwise, the following are a few snippets I captured, and post-show photo-opps.

The Nayoke (Mayor) of my city portraying Phraya Phichai

My host father Bprasong (right) and his best friend (left) who portrayed village people.

Me with the Nayoke

Sunday Bike Race

Presentation Stage with the Nhy Amphur

After another visit to the salon, I arrived at the start of the bike race at about 7:00am, once again in full Thai dress. The Nhy Amphur, director of the district, requested that I was among his entourage. It was an odd experience. I was one of several women who, from what I could understand, were sort of like show girls. We stood on stage during speeches and smiled during photos.

I was also introduced on stage along with three other white foreigners, french tourists on vacation here for the race. For a brief time I held a microphone and introduced myself in Thai, which made me feel a little bit better about things.

Once the photo-opps were over, I changed into biking clothes and Kenny accompanied me on a 15 km bike ride. The main race of the day was 50 km, but we were in the community race, so we took our time taking in all the sites of the district. The weather was perfect. It was a bit chilly with a slight breeze and the sun was bright. We passed several green trees blooming and losing yellow petals, passed sprawling green rice fields with the humming of tractors, and even a few corn fields. It felt suspiciously like a fall morning in Wisconsin. I felt at home.

Finish Line Fun

Once Kenny and I crossed the finish line, I joined the elders of my community who were cheering at the Finish Line. They were playing traditional Thai music and dancing Rom. The lady in the red with green pants tried very hard to teach me the basics, song after song. Later on they even handed me a gong and symbols to play along.

Free Kao-Gleap-Wow for race participants. Basically a giant rice cake whose name means "Rice Kite." When I held my "kite" up to the sky, the wind actually did pick it up and take it away. I would recommend not trying that.

Sunday Mini-Bpaitiao

Another Peace Corps Volunteer, Nathan, lives in my district and also attended the Phraya Phichai Festival with members of his community. After competing in the bike race, we met up and he introduced me to his friend Nan, a local 26-year-old shop keeper who is learning English and studying for government exams.

We rode with her back to Nathan's community where we picked up Nan's sister, Nae, and a random 9-year-old from the neighborhood. After a quick lunch we all piled into Nan's pick-up and started driving up towards the mountains. Nathan and I weren't exactly sure where we were headed, but we trusted Nan like the neighborhood parents trust their kids with her. Nan and Nae sat in the front speaking predominately Thai, Nathan and I sat in the back speaking predominately English. The ride was predominately back row listening to the native conversations of the front row, and vice versa, trying to figure out what the other row was laughing about.

Halfway up a hill we pulled off loaded up the truck with some fresh Som-Tam, grilled fish, grilled chicken, and wine coolers from a street vendor. A few more twists and turns and we were there. 

I can't exactly tell you where there was, because honestly I didn't catch the name, but dotted up and down the river banks at the base of an enormous earthen dam, were little wooden pavilions. We paid a small rental fee, and with our picnic food held up high, we waded waist deep to our little pavilion. 

Left to Right: Me, Nan, Nathan, neighborhood kid, Nae

Vendors weaved their way between the pavilions offering peanuts, ice, coconut ice cream, and endless other goodies. We spent the afternoon munching on spicy som-tam and fish, sipping on wine coolers, and splashing in the water. I was not prepared with a swimsuit, but it didn't matter, literally nobody else at the river was wearing one either; everybody just jumped in, jeans and all.

Nan and Nae were a great big mid-western hoot. We spent a lot of time giggling over all of the words you can accidentally mispronounce in English and Thai that end up sounding like "penis" or one of its euphemisms.  

As the sun was setting and our little truck made its way down the mountain, I was overcome by a sense of peace. I am living in a place whose beautiful green scenery and many rivers reminds me of Wisconsin. I am living in a place whose people are even more beautiful. I am living in a place where people value rest and relaxation over making an extra dime. I am living in a place where generosity is abundant. I am living in a place that is so different from the stressful pace of college.

This all makes it easier to build a place to live within myself. A place that is jai yen yen and cool, full of nam jai and acts of love and service. A place I can go to find stillness, peace, and joy. A place I can bring home. 

Happy Birthday Morgan. May you find joy and peace within yourself. Today and everyday.